Ideal Temperature
50 - 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Consistency is also critical. 50 degrees one day and 65 the next is not good and will cause accelerated aging.

Bear in mind that very cold temperatures are can cause damage and drying of the paper (freeze drying).

Ideal Relative Humidity
50% RH +/- 10% is generally best. Like temperature, avoid storing in areas where there are quick and wide fluctuations in RH.

Bear in mind that extremely low RH can dry paper out. You can have white pages that are brittle!

Lighting
Books should be stored in a dark environment. Incandescent lighting should be used and windows should have blinds to minimize direct sunlight.

Fluorescent bulbs emit stronger UV rays and will degrade comics faster than regular incandescent lighting.

From Wikipedia:
UV emissions
Fluorescent bulbs can damage paintings and textiles which have light-sensitive dyes and pigments. Strong colors will tend to fade on exposure to UV light. Ultraviolet light can also cause polymer degradation with a loss in mechanical strength and yellowing of colorless products.

Storing Slabbed Comics

Can CGC slabs be vacuum sealed?
"No. Our inner well is designed to allow the book to breathe as it is not hermetically sealed, which would probably quadruple our cost if we did so. It is not safe for a book to be air tight if it is not hermetically sealed."

How do I stored a CGC slab?
"We suggest that all graded comics be stored as you would any other comic, standing upright in an archival safe comic box in a cool dry place."

CGC responses from Wm. Eric Downton, CGC Receiving Manager

NOTE: Some collectors have suggested that vertical storage exerts downward pressure on the staples over time. So, it has been suggested that if the slab is stored flat, it relieves any stress on the spine and staples. Currently, there is no evidence that there is any potential harm in this method. Please bear in mind that flat storage is not suggested for unslabbed comics as it may cause spineroll. With the hard outershell and uniform depth, spineroll is not an issue with slabbed books.

Tips / Hints

* Books from attics are tanned and brittle. Books from basements are musty with rusty staples.

* What's above your books? Do not store books in an area below water lines that could spring a leak or bathrooms/laundry rooms that could flood.

* If your basement is an acceptable storage environment, be sure books are at least a foot off the floor.

* Never set your boxes directly on concrete. Concrete conducts cold and wicks moisture.

* Use a fan to circulate air if the room is large and/or full. This ensures even temperature and RH throughout the room and prevents the creation of "micro environments" in cramped spaces.

* Avoid storing near windows and exterior doors. These areas are a risk of water intrusion and often have inconsistent temperatures.

If anyone has additional tips, hints and info, post them here. I will add them to the main document.

It help to have a fan for even enviroment conditions if room is large and or really full. Avoid windows and exterior doors.

I store them in a shed out back. The cats love it.

I store my main collection in Gerber products (full backs and mylites) with two sheets of microchamber paper. I'm not sure if it does a lot of good, but I figure it can't hurt. I just use regular cardboard boxes.

Mike M

For the last 4 years or so now I have been storing my books in Metal Filing Cabinets. All the longboxes were getting unmanageable and if I wanted to find a specific book pulling a box was a pain in the butt. With the cabinets it is supper easy to get to the book I need. I still have some boxes around for overflow books. That way when I buy a new cabinet I can fill it up about halfway.

The lighting section is good. I did just buy some FrameItAgainSam.com frames for my slabs and one for a comic page I have. I know it is sacrilegious to have them in light. I was planning on rotating them every once in a while. I wouldn't plan on hanging up any real expensive books. Just some of my favs.

On the discussion of slabs. How are people storing them? I know there are longboxes that are big enough for graded books and that is what I will need in a bit. Has anyone found cabinets that fit slabs?

I have read that you should store your slabs in boxes as the book can settle and get damaged. It is better to lie them flat. I don't know if this is true or not.

Mike M

That funny you should ask that. I was asking them a different question but he explains how they should be stored.

No. Our inner well is designed to allow the book to breathe as it is not hermetically sealed, which would probably quadruple our cost if we did so. It is not safe for a book to be air tight if it is not hermetically sealed. We suggest that all graded comics be stored as you would any other comic, standing upright in an archival safe comic box in a cool dry place. CGC will not be responsible for damage or grade loss that occurs from improper storage and the grade assigned to the book could be at risk.


---
Wm. Eric Downton
CGC Receiving Manager

They make UV film that filters most of the UV rays which I use on mu lights and window.

I, too, recall the discussion about storing slabs upright. The theory is that it exerts downward pressure on the staples over time. So, it has been suggested that if the slab is stored flat, it relieves any stress on the spine and staples.

I don't see any potential harm in this method. It certainly can't be any more risky than storing upright.

Updated with some info from the thread. I have not gotten into the issue of bags/boards yet. Still thinking how I want to approach that.

I've always stacked my slabs laying flat, it started due to lack of space but now that's the only way I'll store them. When we finally get a bigger place I'll have a custom-made rack for my slabs to slide into.

Maybe use the good,better, best and anal?

My sense is that with comic collectors, the focus should be on anal.

I dont know, there are still thousands of people including dealers that still use tape on the bag flap.

I do.

My rule is, however, unless it's a modern, I peel the tape off before removing the comic.

What do you use to seal the flap?

I tried not using tape and folding the flap in, but what a pain in the arse! So I gave up and stuck with tape. I think it only takes at least one tape pull to remember to remove the tape prior to removing the book.

Agreed. The flaps come untucked when you try to flip through your books... they don't fold down neatly. Plus there is the risk of a book falling out onto the floor with an unsealed flap.

I think it help I use the 4 mil Gerber and I taper the flap. I guess it comes down to personal preference.

Ok, take one mistake and multiply that times the number of comic collectors there are. How many books with tape pull on the cover would you have?

I didn't see this. Is this like how many licks does it take to get to the center of a tootsie pop (lol)? I have two that I know of (not my handy work) - besides, thats more work for you. I wonder when Steve is going to start the thread on Bags and Boards? I've been on a campaign to rebag most of my collection (pretty much done).

I use the yellow dots you buy at Staples to close my mylites. They work well and don't stick to the comics. If the comic is in a regular bag with a regular board then I use tape.

Mike

I'll get on it soon.

FYI.
For those thinking about 4 mil instead of 2 mil mylites from Gerber - don't get the standard. I've found the 2 mil (standard) works great from SA to Modern (with the full or half boards), but after trying the 4 mil last night for the first time - not so good. They're too tight - I could barely get a modern book in one. Although I have to admit, the books do look great in them. Why standard you ask? I prefer the standard 2 mil because they fit better in the storage boxes I have (the larger sizes tend to fit in the box at a slight angle - cramped), they cost less, and like I already pointed out - they work for a wide range of sizes. That's my 2 cents.

I haven't gotten a chance to use this so...

I am in the process of rebagging my entire collection into mylite2s... I am using all Golden Age bags, as the resultant uniformity of the rows of comics pleases me. I use all magazine boxes for the comics, and the new CGC boxes for the magazines (bags larger than the book, and boxes larger than the bag means no more crimps and folds due to off-center handling ). This method results in 100 comics per magazine box, with about an inch of wiggle room. Nice and tidy, and easy to maneuver...

I am using the gerber 4 mil bags in the 7.75 in. That width gives me plenty of room for board and book . The 2 mil bags sounds like wraping paper and still seem to rip too easy. I also find the 4 mil flaps to have a more solid feel. I am using mag boxes since none of the LCS's have golden age.

Thanks for this tip, Mike. I am in the process of designing an environment which includes care and storing of my collection. So this forum topic has been very helpful as a reminder.

Has anyone stored any books in a safety deposit box? I have read that safes are bad because they are humid and cause rust on staples (even in CGC cases), but I have never read anything about SDBs.

Mike

Sup dudes? I just joined the forums. I have a question regarding the condition of my comicbooks.

Some of my comics look like they have been exposed to water and then dried again!?!?!
The pages are kind of wavy, if you catch my drift.

Can anybody help me with what might be the cause of this?

Thx in advance

ps. I store my comics in a cardboard-box at the top of my closet. The box has no lit.