So I am by no means an expert on these matters but I have made it my mission both as a restorer of comics and a collector to learn everything I can about comic condition and how to slow down or stop the ageing process. If you plan on keeping your comics for any length of time and you want them to be in the same condition as when you got them then preservation is important to you. We all know that paper doesn’t last forever and some of us know the pages are worse about that then the cover which is why you general see the pages brown 1st. There are a lot of simple things you can do to protect your treasures for years to come. I will start with a outline of the different things that can be done and get more specific as post direct the conversation.
I feel there are 3 main groups of preservation; Restoration, Handling and Storage.
Storage is the most common. By now everyone is bagging and boarded but more can be done. Micro chamber paper (MCP) is probably the most important while simultaneously the least used. MCP protects the cover from ink transfer and browning caused by mainly the acid in the pages. MCP has special chemical properties which block or absorb acid gases coming from the pages. Mylar is also a logical investment as they are the safest and cost the same if you figure in changing regular bags so often.
I try to keep each post no larger than this so I will give you all time to chime in if you wish and then move on.
Mike

It is pretty common practice among seasoned collectors to use mylite2s, buffered backing boards and MCP. More important than this, however, is location. If you keep your books in a dark, cool (not beside the furnace) and dry environment they will last for a long time without special bags and boards. Perhaps even more important is to avoid disasters. Water is usually the main cause of this type of damage. Keep your books off the floor in case of a flood (if they are in the basement) and don't store them near windows or under water pipes. Also, don't keep them in a safe which is a high humidity environment and can cause staple rusting.

Mike

I am in the long expensive process of transferring my comics over Mylite2s and Buffered boards. While we are on the topic has anyone tried the Mylite+s? Are they more "sturdy" than the regular Mylites?

I've never heard of the mylite+s.

Mike

So it's my understanding Mylites are Mylar bag with a flexible flap and come in 1 or 2 mil. The Mylar’s I buy are 4 mil with flap so aren’t those better? I noticed 1 and 2 mil seem to tear easy and are flimsy.

Mylar is mylar but thicker ones do afford more support on their own. Mylites are 1mil and they are very crinkly and can break fairly easily. Mylites+ are 1.42 mil and I have never seen one but what little I have read they some like them some people don't. Mylite2s are the most popular they are 2mil and far more durable. My brief experience with them I like them alot. There is a Mylite4 now but they are every bit as pricey as Archives (aka Mylars). I would love to have an actual Mylite+ with which to judge how it is though.

I use mylite2s and can't imagine them tearing. The only experience I have with 4 mil mylar is with archives which don't have a flap. I don't know how you would bend over a 4 mil flap as it seems too thick. For my most expensive books I use a mylite2 and then slip it into an opentop archive.

Mike

I am using 4 mil with a flap. The flap is already bent so thats easy enough but the flap wont stay up so its a little tricky slipping the comic in. I might try some 2 mil and see how I like it.

That is my experience with the pre-bent 4 mil flaps. I was always afraid to take the book in and out because of possible spine creases. The 2 mil is basically like a standard comic bag, but a lot clearer because it is mylite.

Mike

So next is MCP. I see there are different types and different supplies. what do you all recommend?

I have only purchased from Comic Supply, but given all the problems with his service I won't go back. Unfortunately, Hotflips doesn't sell MCP. I think that Steve (Zipper) had a website that sold double size sheets for old books.

Mike

Buy your microchamber paper here:
http://www.conservationresources.com/Ma ... n15_03.htm

You will have to trim it yourself, but it's a fraction of the cost. It's the same exact MCP paper that CGC uses... has the watermark and everything.

So I have decided to give Mylites a try but MCS doesn't have them. Who's a good cheap supplier?

Steve's link above will lead you to MCP.

Sorry I know its a little off topic now but I want to buy the 2 mil Mylite sleeves and wasn't sure where to buy those.
Mike

I got mine from E. Gerber.

http://www.egerber.com/

I checked out the site and I like their prices. I will order some soon just waiting for business(computers) to pick up.

I decided on these here. Thanks for everyone's input.


Made from 4 mil thick Mylar D®. Dimensions are width x height plus flap. Flap can be folded over, tucked in, or taped closed.

Item # Dimensions Description Price per 50 Price per 200 Price per 1000
700M4 7 x 10 1/2 New item! Current Comics- 1990's $19.25 $63.00 $276.00
725M4 7 1/4 x 10 1/2 New item! Standard Comics - 1970's-90's $19.50 $64.00 $282.00
775M4 7 3/4 x 10 1/2 New item! Silver/Golden Comics - 1950's-70's $20.00 $66.00 $288.00
800M4 8 X 10 1/2 New item! Golden Age Comics - 1940's-50's $21.25 $70.00 $306.00
875M4 8 3/4 x 11 1/2 New item! Large Comics, Mag. & Letter $24.25 $78.00 $348.00
900M4 9 x 11 1/2 New item! Standard Magazines $29.50

with regards to STORAGE:

* Bags: Mylar has been discussed and I like the E. Gerber Mylite2 for my core 1,000 comics, but I have three long boxes of 90's superman, Batman, & Image that I struggle to justify the expense although I understand after 5-7 year swaps of Poly bags the price is justified....but I'm still tempted to use E. Gerber half backs and 2mil polybags. For the few high dollar raw books perhaps the stiff mylar sleeves are better so I don't need boards and can see the back.

* MCP: Where do you place the paper (inside book at 25% and 75%?) I'm trying to determine how much value this is on top of Mylar and buffered throughout boards. I assume it's notable and for high grade, high value page color protection a smart purchase....too bad I didn't use this when the books were new off the news stand back in 1970.

* Boards: how long would you use a 24 pt buffered throughout board like E.Gerber Half Back? How about Full Back 48 pt? The cost is 2x and Mylite2 + Half-Backs would be more tempting

* Boxes: I have long boxes but I have concerns about stacks falling and bending books when I remove a hand full. I understand mylar makes the pH of the box less an issue but for poly bagged books it seems buffered boxes are recommended vs. regular old comic boxes. I'm thinking about using E. Gerber boxes (short sized). I have also used metal filing cabinets in the past.

* Tightness. I have used poly bags tightly packed in a box which gets all the air out but can leave an impression along the spine if not well aligned. I am thinking I shouldn't stuff them too tight.

I have purchased comics new and stored them for 35+ years starting with bags and refreshing them and adding boards and now realizing the limitations of my prior methods. I guess if technology and awareness was popular back then and before the high grades wouldn't be so rare I think I started collecting around the time the hobby got popular (introduction of Overstreet Guides, bags, stores, etc.).

Hi Ken, Welcome to the boards.

I don’t know if you noticed but this topic is a few years old. Since then I have read more and more experience and here is my current input.

Micro chamber paper is very helpful at absorbing acid. Typically it is inserted between the cover and the pages although many have suggested placing a piece in the centerfold as well. It is recommended to change it out in about 7 years.

Mylar from E-gerber is the best way to go and I think it is good indefinitely.

Backboards should be changed out anywhere from 3-7 years except better brands like E-gerber which seem to be good some time beyond seven years.

I am not certain but I think all comic boxes are acid free now and if it is acid free it is probably good indefinitely since they shouldn’t be absorbing acid from books that are bagged properly.

All this is probably moot if storage climate isn’t right. There are very old books with white pages that didn’t have the benefit of all the protection named above at least the majority of their life and that was all due to climate. From the information I have been able to gather I believe that 60-70 degrees Fahrenheit, 40-50% relative humidity, lack of UV light and as little change in climate of the storage area as possible are the ideal conditions.

Get the climate right and all the other protect should last much longer and reduce the amount of changing out supplies.